theanomaly

Ok so i spent all day today installing my subs in my car.

My setup:

2 15 inch Rockford Fosgate Punch HE's
> Power Handling(RMS)- 200 Watts
> Power Handling(Peak)- 400 Watts
> Impedance-4 Ohms

Rockford Fosgate 801S - Rockford Fosgate Punch 2 Ch 2400 Watt Amplifier
> 200 watts RMS x 2 at 4 ohms
> 400 watts RMS x 2 at 2 ohms
> 800 watts RMS x 1 bridged output at 4 ohms
> 2400 watts MAX X 1 bridged output at 4 ohms
> stereo or bridged mono output
> 4-ohm stable in bridged mode

1 Custom Box Enclosure

Before you say anything, yes i am insane, no i didnt buy this for the tsx i had them before, no i have no hearing left, and yes my trunk rattles like hell. I need dynamat.

Anyways on to the install.

I couldnt fit the box in without getting rid of the navi bracket. Was a big pain in the ass to get it off because it is screwed in from the top. So make sure your box can fit in or else you will have to dance with the devil by taking off the trim by the airbags to get the rear shelf up. PM if you need to know how to do this, it isn't fun.

Heres the box finally going in:


Heres the dvd bracket that i originally took a saw-zall to, and it still didnt fit anyways...


After the box fit, i went to run the 4 gauge power wire back to the subs. Took the fuse out till I had everything hooked up. Zip tied it to a couple lines to keep it put in the engine bay:


I ran it through the firewall at this grommet:


I comes out on the passenger side, just remove the foot panel, it pops right out:


Took the trim out and ran it down the passenger side:


Took the rear seat out and the side seat things. The rear seat pops out except for a bolt holding it in on the drivers side next to the seat belt buckle receiver. The side seat things come out with one bolt on the bottom, then slide upwards so whole piece slides out.


Ran the cable:


Since the stock 6x9s are already set up to play bass, i used tap connectors that i bought from advance auto parts to tap into them, and still retain stock functionality without having to cut anything when i take them out. Stock wires are 18 gauge, i think, so get ones for that. I then used a Line Output converter from Walmart to convert this signal to RCA. What I did was just tap the rear right 6x9 and then jumped that connection into the other inputs on the LOC so the subs would be moving the same at all times. Heres a pic before tapping in:


Heres it finished (minus the final touches of cleaning all the wires up):


Next I ran the gain controller and the remote line down the driver side to the driver seat area. My gain controller is just sandwiched between the seat and the center console. For the remote, i ran it up through behind the fuse box, popped out a black switch piece next to the VSA switch, and up through that hole. I went to advance and got a simple black switch, drilled the black switch piece fit it, and then connected it to the switch. I ran another line from the fuse box (tapped into the sunroof fuse - something non-essential), and then ran that line up to the hole and switch. So now i have functionality of turning the subs off while I'm driving, since the 15s are pretty ridiculous to have on all the time (especially if I'm listening to a certain type of music without much bass).

Heres the switch:


After that, I put all the pieces back in the car where they were suppose to be, cleaned all the surfaces, and fired her up.

Mounted the DVD player to the top of the sub box with velcro:



finished!


I wouldn't recommend 2 15s to everyone, haha, they're not for your average audiophile.

Now i just need to adjust the gains properly, and get some dynamat!!!! damn these rattles are bad...

Big thanks to my buddies Alex and Ben for helpin me out.

Pic from our cruise the other night:

I'm the only sub-350hp car...

Right now were working on rebuilding a 2g dsm eclipse. Just dropped the motor in yesterday. Turbo's going in tomorrow, Garrett gt25. gonna put 400+ hp to the ground with awd. Ill throw some pics up of that if anyone's interested.

wong05tsx

iTrader: (6)

Heh I had a similar day. I ripped out both of my 4ga runs, and ran a 0ga. Finished building my box and amp rack. Just gotta do some finishing touches to the amp rack before I put everything in.

On topic, however..

200RMS per 15!? Does that thing even move!?
My current 15 is getting 900w @ 2ohms.... the two 10's going in are gonna get 800 each @ 1ohm :\ ... yes... RMS.
sry
Good install.

theanomaly

yea they the bump hard, i cant turn the gain up the whole way, for my fear of my car falling apart and my ears going deaf. dynamat is needed soooo bad

wong05tsx

iTrader: (6)

you wouldnt want to turn it "all the way up" regardless, you'll clip the amp, bottom out your subs, and blow it alll!!!

okay maybe i'm exaggerating, but one of those would be likely to happen.


One thing you can do is tighten your trunk latch. It made a huge difference for me.
When you pop your trunk, look straight down and see that hook (that the trunk locks on to)
next to it, is two bolts. Loosen those two bolts, and move the latch down a few cm... tighten the bolts back up. Should be a dramatic difference.

If you lower it too much, your trunk won't be flush with the quarter panels, so keep that in mind.

theanomaly

thanks for the tip man. ill give it a shot and let you know if it works.

theanomaly

it helped pretty considerably. I still need the dynamat tho, to help those little rattles go away. just the sheer volume of air thats needed when the subs are moving is going to cause some rattles, so dynamat it is. thanks for the tip man, much appreciated!

wong05tsx

iTrader: (6)

Second Skin Pro or Raamat BXT > Dynamat Xtreme

http://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com/

eggyhustles

shoulda ported the box

nf3d0149ab

iTrader: (5)

Nice touch with the gain switch.

And thanks wong05tsx for the sound deadening link....very informative!